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EXCURSION 

PLANNED FOR THE 

CITY HISTORY CLUB 



OF 



NEW YORK 



BY 



FRANK BERGEN KELLEY, A. M. Ph. D. 

No. in. THE BOWERY AND EAST SIDE. 



PRICE, 5 CENTS. 

Hailed on receipt of price by Secretary, City History Club, 

23 W. 44th Street. 



Copyrighted by the City History Club of New York. 
1902. 



Collected set. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Excursion No. Ill should be used in connection with the City Histoiy 
Club Plan of New York in the English Period (about 1760), in addition 
to the maps at the end of this pamphlet. Excursions Nos. I, VI and 
VII cover lower Manhattan, and No. II connects with points west of 
Broadway. 

The following are recommended as short works of reference : " Todd's 
Story of the City of New York ; " articles on " The Bowery," " Old Taverns- 
and Posting Inns," and " The Fourteen Miles Round " in the " Half Moon 
Series" (Putnam); Hemstreet's "Nooks and Corners of Old New York " 
(Scribner) ; Ulmann's "Landmark History of New York" (Appleton) ; 
Tuckerman's " Life of Stuyvesant " (Dodd and Mead) ; Janvier's " In Old 
New York " (Harper); Tyler's reproductions of famous local maps and 
illustrations (Dunreath Publishing Co., 46 Wall Street) ; City History Club 
Bibliographies and Excursions. 

The three sections into which this excursion is divided may be covered 
in a single trip, but it would be advisable to spend an entire afternoon on 
Section III. 

Chatham Street (now Park Row) and the Bowery formed the chief and, 
in fact, the only important thoroughfare northward until long after the 
Revolution. In 1807 was inaugurated the new City Plan of numbered 
streets and avenues arranged at right angles to each other, but there could 
be no regularity until 13th Street was reached, above which the " checker- 
board plan " has prevailed. 

Since the early days the shore line has been extended, largely by the 
redemption of great salt meadows, including Tompkins Square. 

Important changes have also taken place in the neighborhood of the old 
Collect Pond at Center Street. After many plans had been tried, the pond 
was finally drained into the North River by a canal and the hollow filled up 
with material taken from the neighboring heights. 

The oldest settled portion of this part of Manhattan was in the vicinity 
of Stuyvesant's " Bowery House " around which a little hamlet grew up. 
Several Revolutionary events of importance took place along and below 
the line of Grand Street. 



The East Side is to-day chiefly interesting for the great field it offers to 
the sociologist and the philanthropist. Here have been begun the solution to 
many difficult problems in the city government and administration, such as 
small parks, public baths, playgrounds and recreation piers. The 
diversified character of the people, many of whom talk, dress and live 
after the methods of the Fatherland, makes it particularly attractive to the 
casual visitor. 



EXCURSION No, III. 

(The index figures and letters refer to Map I at the end.) 

SECTION I. "BOWERY VILLAGE" (2D STREET TO i6th 

STREET. 

Start from Third Avenue ElevjJed R. R. Station at gth Street, and go 
up Stityvesant Street. 

1. 21 Stnyvesant Street, home of Nicholas Stuyvesant, where Ham- 
ilton Fish was born. See old-fashioned houses on south side of street. 

2. "St. 3Iark"s-in-the-Bowery " (Second Avenue and loth Street), 
the second oldest church edifice in New York, erected 1795-99 on the site 
of St. Mark's Chapel, built by Peter Stuyvesant. Stuyvtsant's " Boinverie 
House" was just northwest and is said to have been the place where the 
terms of surrender to the English were signed in 1664. The house 
was burned in the early part of the Revolution. " Petersfield," another 
home of the Stuyvesants, was on the East River shore between 15th and 
1 6th Streets. Nicholas Wm. Stuyvesant's house was between First and 
Second Avenues, 8th and 9th Streets, with an approach from 6th Street 
and Bowery Lane. 

Stuyvesant's Toinl) is beneath the tablet erected to his memory under 
the southeast end of the church. In the same vault are the remains of 
Gov. Sloughter (died 1691J, and across the walk, in the Minthorne vault, 
Gov. D. T. Tompkins is buried. 

In the churchyard may also be seen the graves of A. T.Stewart (whose 
body was stolen about 1880), Mayor Philip Hone and Dr. Harris, first 
rector of the church and a president of Columbia. Within the church 
may be seen some of the original furniture and a number of memorial 
tablets to prominent New Yorkers. 

3. N. Y. Historical Society (Second Avenue and nth Street), 
founded in 1804, present building erected 1853 (entrance only by mem- 
ber's card, obtainable from the President of the City History Club). 

Here are very valuable archaeological and art collectioi s, besides 
many relics of old New York. 

Go South on Second Avenue. 

4. The Middle Dutch Church (Second Avenue and 7th Street), suc- 
cessor of the "Church of St. Nicholas in Fort Amsterdam and of the 
Middle Church at Nassau and Cedar streets." See the tablet on the Second 



Avenue side. Within (entrance at 50 East 7th Street) may be seen pict- 
ures of the old buildings and three handsome memorial tablets to 
Sebastian Krol, Jonas Michaelius and Peter Minuit, who were closely con- 
nected with the first Dutch church in New York. 

The 7th Street M. E. Church, near Third Avenue, was built in 1837, 
succeeding the " Bowery Village Church." 

5. New York Marble Cemetery (gate at 4U Second Avenue), estab- 
lished in 1830, now almost forgotten, although there are over 150 vaults 
here and 1,500 burials recorded. It is hoped to convert this old ceme- 
tery into a playground. 

6. New York City 3Iarble Cemetery (2d Street, east of Second Ave- 
nue), incorporated in 1832. Here are buried James Lenox, Thomas A. 
JEmmett and two of the old Dutch " dominies," and here for a time were 
the remains of Mrs. Paran Stevens, John Ericsson and President Monroe, 

The playground of the school on 2d Street, between Avenue A and 
First Avenue, occupies the graveyard of the 2d Street M. E. Church, which 
was built two blocks east in 1830. 

Go west on jd or Great Jones Street, and north on Lafayette Place. 
See where Elm Street has been extended and widened. 

7. Colonnade Row, formerly called " La Grange Terrace," in honor of 
General Lafayette's home, was built in 1836, and was for a time the home 
of Washington Irving and John Jacob Astor. (Soon to be torn down.) 

Note the old-fashioned houses at Nos. 8 and 10, and the statue of 
Rev. John C. Drumgoole at the Mission of the Immaculate Conception. 

8. Astor Library, built by John Jacob Astor, incorporated 1849, ^rid 
opened 1854, and now part of the New Y^ork Public Library, contains 
many rare and very valuable books and prints. On this site, in the latter 
half of the i8th century, Sperry, a Swiss, kept a fruit and flower garden, 
selling it in 1803 to Astor, who leased it to Delacroix. The latter here 
established his new Yanxhall Garden, which was a fashionable resort 
until 1855. 

Lafayette Place was opened through the Garden in 1826. 
Madame Canda's famous private school for young ladies was located 
here. 

9. Clinton Hall (home of the Mercantile Library), successor of the 
original Clinton Hall on Beekmanand Nassau Streets, was named for Dewitt 
Clinton, who in 1820 helped establish the Mercantile Library. On this 
site was the Astor Place Opera House, the scene of the Forrest and 
Macready riots in 1849. 



Astor Place, originally called Art Street, connected the Bowery with 
Greenwich avenue. 

ro. Statue of Samuel Sullivan Cox {" Sun Set Cox "), the " Letter 
Carriers' Friend." 

11. Germania Theater, erected 1841, as Dr. Macauley's Presbyterian 
Church, used later both as an Episcopal and a Roman Catholic Church. 

12. Cooper Uuiou, devoted to " Science and Art," by Peter Cooper, in 
1854, on the site of the " Two-Mile Stone." where was held one of the first 
New York Sunday-Schools, Peter Cooper acting as Superintendent. See 
the free reading-room. Hbrary, Museum of Decorative Arts, class-rooms 
and lecture halls. In the triangular square, south, see the statue of Cooper, 
(by St. Gaudens, 1896), on the site of which was a great hay-stand con- 
nected with Tompkins Maaket. 

Charlotte Temple is supposed to have lived for a time near the south- 
west corner of Astor Place (Art Street) and Fourth Avenue. 

Go lip Fourth Ai'emie to 14th Street. 
Fourth Avenue here was part of the old Post Road. 

13. Union Square (originally called "Union Place"), the meeting 
place of the Bowery and Broadway. On account of the intersection of such 
important streets, this was left an open square by the Commissioners who 
laid out the city in 1807. The bend in Broadway at Tenth Street was made 
to connect it with the Bloomingdale Road. Washington was met in 1783, 
on Evacuation Day, by the citizens, near the site of his equestrian statue, 
(the first statue erected in the city since that of George III). 

See also Lafayette Statue. 

The "Minto Estate," once owned by Lieutenant-Governor Elliot, then 
by Baron Poelnitz. and later part of the Randall farm, lies south of Union 
Square, between 8th and loth Streets. The ground-rents from this prop- 
erty to-day support the Sailors' Snug Harbor, on Staten Island. 

Hendrick Brevoort's estate lay north, the homestead being on nth 
Street and Broadway. Through the opposition of Brevoort, nth Street was 
not cut through between Broadway and Fourth Avenue. 

The Spingler estate, bought from Elias Brevoort in 1788, occupies the 
vicinity of Union Square. 

Go East on 14th Street. 

14. Tammany Hall, near Third Avenue (fourth home of the " Tam- 
many Societ5% Columbian Order," established in 1786). contains some 
interesting historical prints and paintings. The " Wigwam " is on the top 
floor. 



Go Up Third Avenue. 

15. Tablet (northeast corner 13th Street and Third Avenue) marks 
the site of Peter Stuyvesant's pear tree, brought about 1647 or 1665 to his 
Bouwerie, where it bore fruit for over two centuries. A picture of the tree 
and a section of it may be seen in the Governor's Room in City Hall. 

16. Second Mile Stone, Third Avenue, between 15th and i6th Streets, 
marked the distance from the old City Hall, on Wall Street, on the site of 
the Sub-Treasury. 

Go east on i6ih Street to 

17. Stiiyvesant Square, part of the Stuyvesant estate, once a private 
park. 

St. George's Church, built 1845-8, successor to St. George's Chapel, 
on Beekman Street, and the Friends' Meeting House, front it on the west. 

SECTION n. THE BOWERY, CHATHAM SQUARE AND COL- 
LECT POND. 

Take a Third Avenue car dozun to Canal Street, passing 

M. First Mile Stone, Bowery, opposite Rivington Street. See One 
Mile House, across the way. Delancey Street was originally a lane from 
the house of James DeLancey, Chief Justice, 1733, at the corner of Chrystie 
Street, about the site the present Mills Hotel No. 2. The Delancey Farm 
stretched along the Bowery to Division Street and east to the river. The 
estate was sold under forfeiture after the Revolution on account of the 
DeLanceys' loyalty to England. Division Street was so called because it 
marked the line of division between this and the Rutgers Farm. " Great " 
or " De Lancey Square," as planned in the Ratzen map of 1767, would have 
been bounded by Broome and Hester, Eldridge and Essex Streets. 

The Bayard Farm, owned by a nephew of Peter Stuyvesant, lay on the 
west side of the Bowery, between Bleecker and Canal Streets, extending 
west to McDougal Street. 

On Grand Street was a line of British earthworks in the Revolution. 
"Bunker Hill" or "Bayard's Mount" was at Grand Street, between 
the Bow^ery and Broadway. The Bayard Mansion stood on the site of the 
block bounded by Grand, Broome, Crosby and Elm Streets, and was 
approached by Bayard Lane, on the line of Broome Street. 

18. The Tlialia Theatre, originally " Bowery Theatre," and the fifth of 
that name and on the same site. The old "Bowery Theatre" (built 1826) 



was the first theatre in New York lighted by gas, and here Charlotte Cush- 
man played to fashionable audiences. On the sanme site, in 1760, stood the 
" Bull's Head Tavern," where drovers traded and where Washington 
rested on his entrance to the city in 1783. 

Go south to 

19. Chatham S(iuare, called by the Indians " Warpoes "or "Small 
Hill," a clearing in the woods fenced off for cattle in 1647. Wolfert 
Weber's Tavern was located here. According to tradition, Charlotte 
Temple died in a house at the corners of Pell Street and Chatham Square. 
Chatham Square, Chatham and Pitt Streets were named for Wm. Pitt, 
the Earl of Chatham. 

21. Catherine 3Iarket, at the foot of Catherine Street is the succes- 
sor to an old market of the colonial days. 

22. "The Jews' Burial Ground " (Oliver Street and New Bowery), 
as it is called on old city maps, was bought in 1681 and deeded to the 
Jews in 1729-30, being the oldest Jewish cemetery in New York. Op- 
posite, on Oliver Street, is the INIariner's Temple built in 1843 on the site 
of the old Oliver Street Baptist Church. See tablet. 

Two blocks East, on Henry, corner of Market Street, is the Church of 
the Sea and Land, built in 181 7. 

20. Church of the Transfiguration, corner of Mott and Park Streets, 
opposite the Chinese Joss House, successor to Zion Lutheran Church, built 
in 1797, rebuilt 1819. This is the center of Chinatown. 

Go down Park Row to Roosevelt Street, 

Roosevelt Street, was the line of Wreck Brook, which helped drain the 
swamps in this part of the city ; this section is still called " The Swamp." 

Parlk Row was originally called " Chatham Street " in honor of Sir 
Wm. Pitt. 

23. 166 Park Row ,site of the ''Tea Water Pump," one of the chief 
sources of the local water supply in early days. 

Diagonally across Park Row was the "Chatham," or " Purdy's Na- 
tional Theatre," where " Uncle Tom's Cabin " was first produced in 1852. 

The " Kissing Bridg-e" (one of three bridges of that name) crossed 
Wreck Brook near this point. 

Go up Baxter Street. 

24. House, 32 Baxter Street commemorates the New York African 

Society which aided runaway slaves to escape to Canada by the " Under- 



lO 

ground R. R." The house on this site was part of the system and contained 
secret chambers. See alley approach from Worth Street. 

25. Mulberry Bend Park, made by the demolition of a crowded block 
of tenement houses, gives light, air and recreation to the neighborhood. 

26. The Five Points, once a most dangerous part of the slums, now 
the site of Paradise Park which is faced by the Five Points Mission, incor- 
porated 1850 (site of the notorious " Old Brewery "), and the Five Points 
House of Industry. In 174.1, fourteen negroes were burnt here during the 
Negro Insurrection. Here the *' Dead Rabbits " had their headquarters. 

Go west on Leona?'d to Centre Street. 

27. The Tomhs and the Criminal Court Building-, joined by the 
*' Bridge of Sighs." The original " Tombs " was erected in 1838 of stone 
brought from the " Bridewell " in City Hall Square. The site is near the 
center of the Collect, (" Kalch Hoeck " or Lime Shell Point from the 
Indian shell heaps in the vicinity) or Fresh IVater Pond, w^hich was 
60 feet deep and covered 70 acres between Elm, White, Mulberry and 
Leonard Streets. The murder of an Indian here in 1626, led to a massacre 
in Gov. Kieft's day. This was a favorite resort for fishermen and 
skaters, and here Fitz-Green Halleck's father is said to have saved Prince 
W^illiam (later William IV. of England) from drowning. Christopher Colles 
built a pumping station in 1774 at Pearl Street and Broadway and a reservoir 
at Broadway and White Street, in order to supply the city with water from 
this pond. The " Little Collect " was between Elm, Worth, Duane and 
Park Streets, and joined with the Collect. On its shore, in colonial da}s 
was a powder house. In 1796 John Fitch experimented with his steam- 
boat on the Collect. The pond having become a menace to the health of 
the community, it was filled in about 1812, its water being drained off by 
a canal or open drain to the North River through Canal Street. 

Go down Center Street, 
passing on the right an old shot tower. See the old house at No. 54 (built 
1831). 

28. The Manhattan Water Tank, corner of Duane Street, now en- 
closed but visible through the windows. This tank was built by the Man- 
hattan Water Company which was headed by Aaron Burr whose real aim 
was to get a charter in 1799 for the Manhattan Bank (now at 40 Wall 
Street). The source of the water supply is the same springs which 
originally filled the Collect Pond. Wooden pipes or bored logs were laid 
through the streets and connected with residences. The charter of this 
bank still depends on keeping the tank filled. 



Aaron Burr's Law Office was across the street at No. 1 1 Reade Street. 
It has been recently torn down to make way for the new Hall of Records. 
(For points below see Excursion I.) 

SECTION III. EAST AND WEST, VIA CANAL AND GRAND 

STREETS. 

Fro7n Chatham Square take East Broadivay Car to the Junction with 

Canal Street. 

This section is sometimes called Judaea or the Ghetto, from the large 
Jewish population. 

A. Wm. H. Seward Park and open air playground made by the 
remov^al of several blocks of tenements. 

Go to Henry Street. 

B. Tweed House, home of \Vm. M. Tweed, 155 Henry Street. 

C. All Saints Cliurcli (built 1828), southeast corner Henry and Scam- 
mel Streets. Henry and Rutgers Streets were named for Henry Rutgers. 

Go up Scanunel and East on Grand Street. 

D. Statue of Guttenberg (inventor of movable type) on Hoe Build- 
ing, Grand and Willett Streets. Willett and Sheriff Streets were named 
for Col. Marinus Willett, of Revolutionary fame, sheriff and mayor of New 
York about one hundred years ago. 

Go South on Jackson Street. 

E. Corlear's Hook Park and the adjacent territory were part of Jacob 
Corlear's territory in early colonial days. The Indians named this " Naig- 
ia-nac " or " Sand lands," and here they had a village from which a trail 
ran on the line of Grand Street across the island and up to Sappokanican. 
Here, in 1643, a number of defenceless Indians v/ere slaughtered by order 
of Gov. Kieft. The pier of the new East River Bridge was completed in 
1900. 

Go up Corlear's and Mangin Streets to 

F. Manhattan Market (built 1827), hidden in the heart of the block 
bounded by Rivington, Stanton, Goerck and Mangin Streets. 

G. Manhattan Island (to be distinguished from the Island of Man- 
hattan) was a height covering the blocks between Houston, Lewis and 
Third Streets and the East River. This was formerly surrounded by 
swamps and became an island at high tide. 



12 

The 3cl Street Recreation Pier was built in 1897 to provide fresh air 
and good music for the crowded neighborhood. 

Go west on Houston Street. 
(Note : Houston and Fulton Streets are the only two streets south of 
loth Street, crossing the island, under the same name, from river to river.) 

H. Hamilton Fisli Park (between Sheriff and Pitt Streets) was cre- 
ated in 1898, and includes the notorious " Bone Alley." (See the Public 
Bath.) 

Go doiun Pitt to Gi'and Street and take car west. 

I. Ludlow Street Jail, north of Grand Street. 

K. Essex 3Iarliet (built 1818) and Police Court (1856), corner Essex 
Street. 

L. First Board of Education Buildini?, n. w. corner of Elm Street. 

N. St. Patrick's, corner of Mott Street, once a cathedral, built 
1809-15. "Boss" J. Kelly, Vicar-General Starr and first resident Bishop 
Connelly are buried here. 

Transfer up the Bowery to Prince Street and go West. 

O. Police Headquarters, 300 Mulberry Street. 

P. President Monroe's House, northwest corner of Prince and Marion 
Streets. 

O. Site of Niblo's Garden and Tlieatre, southeast corner of Broad- 
way and Prince Street, opposite which lived James Fenin:iore Cooper. 

The Garden was back of the famous Metropolitan Hotel (i852-'89). 

624 Broadway, site of Laura Keene's, later the Olympic, Theatre. 

677 Broadway, site of Tripler Hall and the first New York Metropolitan 
Opera House, where Jenny Lind sang. 

Tremont House, opposite Bond Street, consisting in part of the first 
marble-front houses in the city, built 1825. 

31 Bond Street was the scene of the famous Burdell Murder, in 1857. 



13 



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REFERENCES. ' Ay^ ""^'^" ' 

3 ST. MASS'S CHUaCH. / / '-,<^ ^; <. 
J ST HAaS-S CEMETARV. / / "v^V / /'- 
i ST. MAErS PARSO:«AO£. / • "v^-/ / 

5 HISTOaiCAL SOCIETY. ' "> <; 

6 OLD PEAE TEEE. PLASTZO 1«7. / A,^. 

7 PETZBSPIELD. HESIDEKCBof PETES 0. 3Tn'VE3AVr. / - ,"^ 

8 BOWERT HOCSE. SESIDEKCE of SICH. WM. STUrVTSA-VT. 
• DCWEBT TILLAOE SCHOOL HOCSE. 







Map of Sti^esant's B6JW9r\ 

MAP III. 
Reprinted from Mrs. Lamb's " History of the City of New York," by permission of 
A. S. Barnes & Co., Publishers. 



14 



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15 



Index. 

St. Mark's. 

German Lutheran Church. 

English Church. 

Presbyterian Church 

Methodist Church. 

Fripnds' New Meeting House. 

Jail. 

Bridewell. 

Alms House. 

Hospital. 

Arsenal. 

Catharine Slip Market. 

New Court House. 

DeLancey House. 

N. Bayard (Bayard's Mt.). 

Corlaer's Hook or Crown Point. 

Collect Pond. 




'■^^ ■"- 



MAP n, part of " Mangin Plan," i8o3. 
From "In Old New York." By permission. Copyright, 
1894, by Harper & Bros. 



i6 

OBJECT.—" The City History Club has for its object the study of 
The history of the City of New York, m the hope of awakening an interest 
in its traditions and in the possibihties of its future, such educational work 
being for the improvement, uplifting and civic betterment of the com- 
munity." 

HISTORICAL EXCURSIONS.— The Club is prepared to furnish a 
competent guide to points of historic interest, the fee varying from .$3 to $5 
according to the locality visited. 

LINTERN SLIDES AND LECTURES.— Shdes illustrating City His- 
tory may be hired at $2 per set, and Lecturers may be secured on appli- 
cation to the Corresponding Secretary. 

PUBLICATIONS.— Syllabus of a Course of Study on the History of 
New York with suggestive questions on the Dutch Period. 10 cents. 

Bibliography of the Dutch Period. 10 cents. 

Syllabus of the English and Revolutionary Periods. 10 cents. Set of 
above three, 25 cents. 

City History Leaflet No. i, "An Early Excise Law," " The Currency 
of New Amsterdam " (translations of early Dutch laws). 5 cents. 

"Graphic .Views of Government" (to illustrate the relations of our 
National, State and City governments). 5 cents. 

City History Club Map of New York in the English Period. 5 cents. 

Club Song. 5 cents. 

Historical Excursions. (5 cents each.) 

No. L City Hall and historical sites between Chambers and Wall 
Streets. 

No. n. Old Greenwich Village. 

No. HL The Bowery and Stuyvesant's Home. 

No. IV. Central Paik to Van Cortlandt Park. (Revised with Maps.) 

No. V. (Bicycle Excursion No. H.) McGown's Pass and upper Central 
Park. 

No. VL Fraunces' Tavern. (Illustrated.) 

No. VII. Dutch New York, sites below Wall Street. (2 maps.) A 
set of all the above publications will be mailed to any address on receipt of 
50 cents. 

Club Game, 25 cents. 

ILLUSTRATIONS.— The Club publishes 45 small pictures of the 
famous men, buildings and historic events of local history. These are 
sold for 25 cents per set. 

The Club Year Book may be obtained on application to the Corre- 
sponding Secretary, 23 West 44th Street. 
H 7645. 



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